It’s been a while since I updated this blog, but I’m here with the second post about my Bootstrap Dress Form. I honestly thought I would be done with it by now, but I had some difficulty with it which means that I’ve been procrastinating. This is very bad because I’ve actually got a few more projects in the queue that I don’t want to start without finishing it, and even one that might really depend on it. I figured that I’d catch this blog up and hopefully it will give me the kick in the arse that I need to finally get it done.
When we left off, I had cut out all of the fabric pieces that I needed for a mockup out of an old beige bedsheet. This actually didn’t take me that long to sew up and numbering the pattern pieces really helped. I used an invisible zip in the back and once I was done I was able to try it on.
I was worried about the negative ease, but that truly wasn’t an issue at all. Neither was the length measurements, my waist and hip were the same as on the pattern, which was great because I was sure that this would be the biggest issue. Unfortunately, the actual issue was much more difficult to fix. The bust point was off by a fair amount and the cups went further down on my body than my actual breasts do. I’m not expecting an exact body double, in fact I mentioned in my last post that I would find that to be pretty creepy, but we’re talking about 3cm of breast that I just don’t have so I needed to fix it.
I tried a couple of things, draping on my own body, flat pattern measurements and I eventually settled on a mix of both. Again, this took me a while because it was something that I had no experience with and therefore did procrastinate from.
I can’t really tell you the method, I was able to bodge something together and thought that I would finally just cut it out and try to make another mockup from it. I decided to only cut some of the pieces out just because I didn’t feel like cutting everything out in one go. This turned out to be a good idea because when I sewed the cups and the upper bodice together it became clear that I had absolutely no idea what I was doing. See the evidence below.
This was immensely frustrating for me, and I did consider giving up, but I’d already bought my stand so I knew that I needed to keep going.
I realised that the biggest issue that I’d had with the adjustments that I made was because the bust points were really off. I just did not know how to fix that. I double checked my measurements and realised that I’d actually given the wrong bust apex to apex when I bought the pattern, as well as the wrong bust height measurement. I was probably wearing a padded bra when I took those so it makes sense why they were a bit off. I decided just to fork out and buy another pattern with those adjustments in mind. I figured I’d already bought everything so why not just fork out another £18 to get it done (especially considering I’ve been working on it since July!)
When the new pattern came, there were still some things that I needed to do, but they were relatively minor changes. I compared the new pattern piece to the one I’d made when I tried to fix it myself and realised that the breast root was still too low. I reduced the cup by 1.5cm and to make up for it added 1.5cm just under the bust. This was a really basic lengthen and shorten adjustment, the only slightly tricky part was making sure that I remembered to do it on the cup and under bust pieces and making sure to do it the same way on both.
I remade the mockup, I decided to just do the front as I knew the back fit me well as I didn’t want to waste much more time. It only took me a morning to do (though I wasn’t very neat) and when I held it up to my body it looked so much better. It is now close enough that I’m comfortable going ahead and working on the actual dress form. Hopefully it wont take me three months.